The Story Of Navajo Jewelry Became A True American Classic

By Chleo Gib


When travellers to the South West of the United States first encounter the marvelous craftmanship and finesse of Navajo jewelry, they often assume that it must be part of a tradition going back many hundreds of years. In actual fact, the art of metal working only arrived in Native American communities when the Spanish and other Europeans went to America. Although the skills were only acquired by the Navajo and other South Western Natives in approximately the middle of the 19th century, the skill and beauty of the pieces is often inspired.

The Navajo call themselves the Dineh, with their own language closely related to that of their South Western neighbors, the Apache. The tradition of fine jewelry and silver working arrived in the mid-19th century and was learned by the Dineh from Spanish metal workers. Another potential surprise is that the skills were not taught by Spanish workers of fine metal, but by iron workers and blacksmiths.

In the early days of Dineh silver smithing, tools were often very primitive indeed. They were Made in many cases from old scraps of iron that would be picked up from the foundry. Later, properly manufactured shears, files and hammers were traded for by the Dineh smiths. The Dineh also took their skills to the nearby Pueblos, and Zuni jewelry and work from other Pueblos developed a good reputation.

But the Dineh retained their preeminent place as the finest of the South West's native metalworkers. Early charcoal forges were made from mud by the Dineh, while tree stumps or rocks often took the place of more conventional anvils. Sliver 'slugs' or small ingots, were made in earthenware or iron crucibles, before being pounded flat.

The craftsman would then form the shape that he wanted using shears and other cutting tools. Polishing work would be done with ashes or fine sand, to give the items the required finish. A final buffing for American Indian artifacts such as this was often carried out using buckskin.

Turquoise is a gem stone which is long associated with the craftmanship of the Dineh, and was popular with the people of the South West long before the arrival of Europeans. It was often used alongside shells in pre-metal designs. The distinctive greenish blue gem still forms part of many of the artifacts manufactured by the Dineh today.

With such striking workmanship and style, it is no wonder that Navajo jewelry continues to attract notice today. Combining Native American tradition with the kind of skills which take a lifetime to learn, the items are strikingly individual in appearance. Their place of origin, cultural background and sheer beauty make them a genuine American classic.




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